How to Get Rid of Termites: Complete Treatment Guide (2026)

Last updated: March 3, 2026

By James — 25-year pest control industry veteran

Getting rid of termites requires identifying the species, assessing the scope of the infestation, and choosing the right treatment method. Unlike most household pests, termites live in large colonies that can number in the hundreds of thousands, and they cause structural damage that worsens every day treatment is delayed. The average U.S. termite damage repair costs $3,000 to $5,000.

This guide covers how to identify your termite type, which treatment methods work for each species, why professional treatment is almost always necessary, and what to expect from the process. For detailed pricing, see our termite treatment cost guide.

Step 1: Identify Your Termite Type

The species of termite determines which treatment methods will work. The four main types in the United States behave differently and require different approaches.

Subterranean termites

Subterranean termites are the most common and destructive type in the U.S., responsible for roughly 80% of all termite damage. They live in underground colonies and build mud tubes to reach wood above ground. You will find mud tubes along foundation walls, in crawl spaces, and on support piers. They need constant moisture contact with soil, which is why they tunnel rather than living inside the wood itself.

Treatment: Liquid barrier treatment or bait stations. The treatment must target the colony underground and break the connection between the colony and the structure.

Drywood termites

Drywood termites live entirely inside the wood they eat, with no soil contact needed. They are most common in coastal and southern states. The primary sign is frass: small, six-sided fecal pellets that accumulate in piles below infested wood. Infestations are often localized to specific pieces of furniture, framing, or trim.

Treatment: Localized treatment (injection, heat, or microwave) for small infestations. Whole-house fumigation for widespread or multi-location infestations.

Dampwood termites

Dampwood termites infest wood with high moisture content, such as logs, stumps, and structural wood affected by leaks or poor drainage. They are larger than other termite species and are most common in the Pacific Northwest, coastal areas, and the Southeast. They do not build mud tubes.

Treatment: Fix the moisture source first (leaks, drainage, wood-to-soil contact). Once the wood dries out, dampwood termites often leave on their own. Replace damaged wood and improve ventilation in affected areas.

Formosan termites

Formosan termites are a highly aggressive subterranean species found primarily in the southern U.S. (Texas, Louisiana, Mississippi, Alabama, Florida, Georgia, the Carolinas, and Hawaii). A single colony can contain several million workers and consume wood at a rate far faster than other species. They build carton nests (made of chewed wood and soil) inside walls, which can retain moisture and allow them to survive without ground contact.

Treatment: Aggressive liquid barrier treatment combined with bait stations. Formosan infestations almost always require professional treatment due to colony size and their ability to build above-ground nests.

Step 2: Confirm an Active Infestation

Before investing in treatment, confirm that the infestation is active, not old damage from a previous colony. For a complete list of warning signs, see our signs of termites guide.

Signs of active termites

• Fresh mud tubes. Break a small section of a mud tube and check back in a few days. If termites repair it, the colony is active.
• Live termites. Worker termites are small (1/8 inch), pale, soft-bodied insects. Soldiers have larger, darker heads with mandibles. Finding live workers or soldiers in wood or mud tubes confirms activity.
• New frass. Fresh drywood termite frass is the same color as the wood being eaten. If you clean up a frass pile and it reappears within days, the infestation is active.
• Swarmers. Winged termites (alates) emerging inside your home indicate a mature colony nearby. Swarms typically happen in spring or after rain.
• Hollow-sounding wood. Tap wood surfaces with the handle of a screwdriver. A hollow sound indicates internal damage. Press into the wood; if it gives easily or you can push through, termites have eaten the interior.

Step 3: Why DIY Termite Treatment Usually Fails

Unlike bed bugs or ants, termites are one pest where DIY treatment has a very low success rate. Here is why.

• Colony size. A mature subterranean termite colony has 60,000 to over 1 million workers. Killing the termites you can see does nothing if the colony underground remains intact.
• Hidden access points. Termites enter through foundation cracks, expansion joints, plumbing penetrations, and other gaps that are difficult to find and treat without professional equipment.
• Product limitations. Consumer-grade termiticides are less concentrated and less effective than professional products. Termidor (fipronil), the most effective liquid termiticide, is only available to licensed pest control operators in most states.
• Application requires expertise. Liquid barrier treatment involves trenching around the foundation and injecting hundreds of gallons of termiticide into the soil. Incorrect application leaves gaps that termites exploit.
• Ongoing damage. Every week of ineffective DIY treatment means more structural damage. The cost of that damage quickly exceeds the cost of professional treatment.

The one exception: small, clearly localized drywood termite infestations in accessible wood (such as a piece of furniture or a single piece of trim) can sometimes be treated with injectable foams or by removing and replacing the affected wood.

Step 4: Professional Treatment Methods

Professional exterminators have access to more effective products, specialized equipment, and the training to apply treatments correctly. Here are the main methods.

Liquid barrier treatment

The most common method for subterranean termites. A pest control technician digs a trench around the home's foundation (6 inches wide, 6 inches deep) and applies a liquid termiticide into the soil. For slab foundations, the technician drills through the concrete at intervals and injects termiticide underneath. The chemical creates an unbroken barrier that kills termites as they pass through it.

Modern termiticides like fipronil (Termidor) are non-repellent, meaning termites cannot detect the chemical and walk through it. They then spread the toxin to other colony members through contact, which is what eliminates the colony. Liquid barriers typically last 5 to 10 years.

Bait stations

Bait stations are installed in the ground every 10 to 15 feet around the home's perimeter. They contain wood or cellulose laced with a slow-acting insect growth regulator. Termite workers find the bait, feed on it, and carry it back to the colony where it spreads to other members, eventually killing the queen and collapsing the colony.

Bait systems are slower than liquid treatment (three to six months for full elimination) but provide ongoing monitoring. A technician checks the stations regularly to track activity and replenish bait. Popular systems include Sentricon (with noviflumuron) and Trelona (with novaluron).

Fumigation

Fumigation involves sealing the entire structure under a tent and filling it with sulfuryl fluoride gas. The gas penetrates all wood in the structure, killing drywood termites everywhere including inside walls and framing. Fumigation requires vacating the home for two to three days and removing all people, pets, plants, food, and medications.

Fumigation is the only treatment that reaches every part of the structure simultaneously. It is the standard treatment for widespread drywood termite infestations. However, it provides no residual protection; termites can reinfest after the gas dissipates. For full details, see our fumigation cost guide.

Heat treatment (localized)

Localized heat treatment uses portable heaters to raise the temperature of infested wood to 120-140°F, killing termites and eggs. It is effective for drywood termites in accessible areas and is chemical-free. However, it does not treat areas the heat cannot reach (deep wall voids, inaccessible framing) and provides no residual protection.

Step 5: How to Choose a Termite Company

Choosing the right company is critical because termite treatment involves significant investment and the consequences of poor treatment are serious.

• Get at least three quotes. Pricing varies significantly between companies. Each should inspect your home before quoting.
• Ask about the warranty. Reputable companies offer a warranty (typically one to five years) that covers retreatment if termites return. Understand what is covered and what voids the warranty.
• Verify licensing. Every state requires pest control operators to be licensed for termite treatment. Ask for the license number and verify it with your state's department of agriculture or pest control board.
• Ask about the treatment plan. A good company explains exactly what they will do, which products they will use, where they will apply treatment, and what follow-up is included.
• Check for a WDI report. If you are buying or selling a home, you need a Wood Destroying Insect (WDI) inspection report (also called a termite letter). This is a standardized form that documents any evidence of termites, damage, and conducive conditions.
• Read the contract carefully. Understand the retreatment terms, annual renewal fees for warranty continuation, and what maintenance you are responsible for (like keeping soil away from the foundation).

Step 6: What to Expect During Treatment

Before treatment

• The company will inspect your home and identify the termite species, infestation scope, and entry points.
• For liquid treatment: clear 18 to 24 inches along the foundation perimeter (move plants, stored items, and mulch).
• For fumigation: plan to vacate for two to three days. Remove all food, medicine, pets, and plants.
• For bait stations: minimal preparation needed beyond clearing access to the perimeter.

During treatment

• Liquid barrier: treatment takes four to eight hours for an average home. The technician trenches around the foundation, drills through concrete where needed, and injects termiticide.
• Fumigation: the tenting and gas application process takes two to three days total.
• Bait stations: installation takes two to four hours. Follow-up monitoring visits take 15 to 30 minutes.

After treatment

• Liquid treatment works immediately but full colony death takes one to three months. You may still see swarmers or activity during this period.
• A follow-up inspection at four to six weeks confirms treatment effectiveness.
• Annual inspections are strongly recommended to catch any new activity early.

Step 7: Preventing Future Infestations

After treatment, these steps reduce the risk of termites returning.

• Eliminate wood-to-soil contact. Wood siding, door frames, deck posts, and other structural wood should be at least 6 inches above the soil. Use concrete or metal supports where wood contacts the ground.
• Fix moisture problems. Repair leaking pipes, faucets, and AC units. Ensure gutters and downspouts direct water away from the foundation. Grade soil away from the house so water flows outward.
• Reduce mulch near the foundation. Keep wood mulch at least 12 inches from the foundation, or switch to rubber, gravel, or stone mulch.
• Remove wood debris. Clear dead trees, stumps, firewood piles, and scrap lumber from within 20 feet of the structure.
• Seal entry points. Fill cracks in the foundation, seal gaps around pipes and utility lines, and repair any damaged siding or trim.
• Maintain ventilation. Ensure crawl spaces have adequate ventilation and vapor barriers to reduce moisture buildup.
• Schedule annual inspections. A professional inspection once per year ($75 to $150) catches new activity before significant damage occurs.

For a complete overview of pest control costs, see our pest control cost guide.

Frequently Asked Questions