How Much Does It Cost to Tent a House for Termites in 2026?

Last updated: May 26, 2026

Tenting a house (whole-structure fumigation) costs $1,400 to $5,200 in 2026, with most homeowners paying around $2,700 for a 1,800 to 2,200 square foot single-story home. Pricing follows a per-cubic-foot formula in the $4 to $8 per square foot range, because sulfuryl fluoride dose is calibrated to the volume of enclosed space inside the tent (not the floor area). Drywood termites in multiple wall cavities are the single most common reason to schedule a tent.

$1,400 – $5,200
Average: $2,700
National average for whole-structure house tenting (2026)
Estimated ranges based on national averages. Actual costs vary by provider, location, and scope of service.

This guide breaks down 2026 tenting pricing by home size, the regional split between Florida and California (which together account for roughly 80 percent of all residential fumigations in the country), the prep and lodging line items most quotes leave out, and when spot treatment, heat, or a Sentricon bait system is the better economic call than a full tent. If you are still confirming you have termites at all rather than carpenter ants or a different wood-borer, the guide to identifying and removing termites walks through the species check before you spend money on a fumigation bid.

Tenting cost by home size in 2026

Home size sets the floor for every fumigation bid because the contractor prices off cubic feet of enclosed space, not square feet of floor plan. A 2,000 square foot ranch with 8-foot ceilings encloses about 16,000 cubic feet; the same square footage as a two-story home with a vaulted living area can enclose 22,000 to 28,000 cubic feet, and the bid tracks that volume directly. The dose of sulfuryl fluoride is calibrated to a target concentration-time (CT) product measured in ounce-hours per 1,000 cubic feet, so more volume means more gas, more tarp, and more crew hours.

Home size (sq ft)Typical enclosed volumeTenting cost rangeEffective $/sq ft
Under 1,0008,000 to 10,000 cu ft$1,400 to $2,000$5.00 to $8.00
1,000 to 1,50010,000 to 14,000 cu ft$1,700 to $2,500$4.50 to $7.50
1,500 to 2,00014,000 to 18,000 cu ft$2,200 to $3,200$4.00 to $6.50
2,000 to 2,50018,000 to 22,000 cu ft$2,700 to $3,800$4.00 to $6.00
2,500 to 3,00022,000 to 27,000 cu ft$3,200 to $4,500$4.00 to $5.50
3,000 to 4,00027,000 to 36,000 cu ft$3,800 to $5,200$3.80 to $5.00
Over 4,00036,000+ cu ft$4,800 to $8,500$3.50 to $5.00

The per-square-foot number drops on larger homes because the fixed cost lines (crew mobilization, tarp rental, monitoring equipment, the post-aeration gas-detection test) get spread across more area. The break-even point sits around 2,200 square feet; above that, scale starts working in your favor. Below 1,500 square feet, you pay a relative premium because the fixed-cost share dominates the bid.

Cathedral ceilings, atriums, double-height entries, and finished attic conversions all push you toward the high end of the range. So do split-level layouts where the tent has to be cut and resealed across roof transitions. Two contractors quoting the same 2,400 square foot home can come in $800 apart based solely on how they measured the cubic volume, so ask for the volume number in writing alongside the price.

What drives the variance in tenting quotes

Cubic volume and ceiling height

Volume is the single biggest variable because the gas dose is calibrated to cubic feet of enclosed space. A home with 10-foot ceilings throughout pays roughly 25 percent more in gas than the same floor plan with 8-foot ceilings. Vikane (the Douglas Products brand of sulfuryl fluoride that dominates the US fumigation market) costs the contractor roughly $11 to $15 per pound at wholesale, and a 2,000 square foot home with 9-foot ceilings absorbs about 18 to 25 pounds of gas at the standard drywood termite label rate.

Roof complexity and tarp material

A simple gable roof tents easily with two or three standard tarps. Multiple roof peaks, dormers, turrets, solar arrays, and chimneys add tarp seams that all have to be clamped or weighted to hold a seal. Each extra seam adds 30 to 60 minutes of crew time during tent-up and tent-down. Spanish-tile and clay-tile roofs need additional padding under the tarps to prevent tile breakage during the seal process, which adds $150 to $400 on most California and Florida jobs.

Landscaping and clearance work

The tarps have to seal to the soil around the entire foundation. Plantings within 18 inches of the wall typically need to be trimmed back or wrapped, and large branches overhanging the roof have to be cut clear. Most fumigators include light trimming in the bid but charge $75 to $250 extra for heavier vegetation work. Permanently installed satellite dishes, security cameras on extension arms, and rooftop HVAC condensers may all need temporary removal or wrapping.

Number of stories and access difficulty

A two-story tent uses 60 to 80 percent more tarp than a one-story tent of the same floor plan because the tarps have to drape the full height of the structure on every elevation. The crew also needs longer ladders and more weighted clamps along the eaves. Three-story homes and two-story homes with walkout basements sometimes need rigging that adds $300 to $600 to the labor portion of the quote.

Re-entry monitoring and post-aeration testing

A certified fumigator has to measure interior gas concentration with a calibrated Vikane detection meter (the Spectros Instruments Fumiscope is the industry-standard tool) before clearing the structure for re-entry. The legal threshold is 1 PPM. If concentrations stay above that after the initial aeration window, the crew has to extend ventilation and re-test, which can push the timeline from 36 hours to 60 hours and add $150 to $300 in labor. Some contractors itemize the post-aeration test separately; others bake it into the base price.

Regional licensing and permitting

Florida and California require state-licensed fumigation operators with credentials beyond a standard pest-control license. In California, the operator must hold a Structural Pest Control Board Branch 1 license. In Florida, the operator must be certified by FDACS (Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services) in the structural fumigation category. These extra credentials, paired with the heavy demand in both states, push California and Florida labor rates 15 to 25 percent above the national midpoint.

Added costs most quotes do not include

A $2,700 fumigation bid is not your total out-of-pocket cost. Plan for these line items separately so the real number does not surprise you on tent day.

Added costTypical rangeNotes
Hotel for 2 to 3 nights$240 to $600Family of four, mid-market hotel; longer if aeration extends
Pet boarding$30 to $90 per night per petHotels with pet fees are sometimes cheaper than boarding
Food and medication you cannot bag$80 to $300Open packages, refrigerated items if power is interrupted
Nylofume bag supply$0 to $150Included by most fumigators; confirm in writing
Yard prep and tree trimming$0 to $400Heavier work if mature vegetation touches the structure
Roof tile padding$150 to $400Spanish or clay tile only
Cleaning service after tent-down$150 to $300Optional; many homeowners want a wipe-down before returning
Termite damage repair$500 to $8,000Drywall, framing, trim replacement after damage assessment
Local permits and notices$25 to $150Some California cities; usually pulled by the contractor

The damage repair line is where total spend can balloon. Tenting kills the colony but does not undo the structural damage they did on the way out. Carpenters and drywall contractors charge separately for the post-fumigation rebuild, and a moderate drywood infestation in framing can mean $2,000 to $5,000 of carpentry on top of the fumigation bill. Get a damage estimate from a general contractor before you authorize the tent, not after; sometimes the damage scope means a partial demolition is cheaper than treating in place.

Day-by-day breakdown of the fumigation process

A full tenting job runs 48 to 72 hours from tent-up to re-entry clearance. Florida and California crews can stretch that to 96 hours during cool months because lower temperatures slow how quickly sulfuryl fluoride saturates wood. Here is the sequence you should expect.

Pre-tent day: homeowner preparation

You bag or remove every consumable item, open every interior door and drawer, turn off gas at the meter, secure pets and plants to leave the property, and ensure the perimeter of the home is clear. Most contractors deliver Nylofume bags 48 hours before tent-up. Sulfuryl fluoride does not leave residue on surfaces the way an organophosphate insecticide does, but anything that absorbs gas (food in semi-permeable packaging) has to be either removed or double-bagged so the gas cannot reach it.

Tent-up day (typically Monday or Tuesday)

The crew arrives between 7 and 9 AM with tarps, clamps, sand snakes (weighted tubes that seal the tarp edges to the soil), warning placards, and the fumigant cylinders. Tent installation on an average 2,000 square foot single-story home takes three to five hours. Once the structure is sealed, the lead fumigator introduces a small dose of chloropicrin as a warning agent to confirm the tent is gas-tight. After the leak test, the sulfuryl fluoride is released through hoses from cylinders staged on the lawn. The crew walks the perimeter every two hours for the first six hours, checking for leaks at seam clamps and the ground seal.

Exposure period (24 to 36 hours under tent)

Once the dose is in, the home stays sealed while the gas reaches lethal concentration inside the cellulose of every framing member. The drywood termite label dose is expressed as a CT (concentration-time) product, generally in the range of 12 to 24 ounce-hours per 1,000 cubic feet. Warm temperatures above 70 degrees shorten the required exposure; cool temperatures below 60 degrees lengthen it. This is why Florida and California schedule most fumigations between April and October, when the temperature window is forgiving.

Aeration day

Crew returns midday, opens vents on the tarp, and runs fans to push the gas out. After two to three hours of forced ventilation, the tarps come down. The fumigator then enters with a Fumiscope to measure residual gas in living spaces, including closets, under furniture, and inside cabinets. When every reading sits at or below 1 PPM, the home is cleared for re-entry and you receive a written clearance certificate. Hold onto this document; it is the paperwork that satisfies real estate transactions involving an active termite finding.

Florida house tenting: what 2026 pricing looks like

Florida is the highest-volume fumigation market in the country. Almost every coastal county runs annual or biannual WDO (Wood-Destroying Organism) inspections, and drywood termite findings on an NPMA-33 form routinely trigger a tenting requirement before a residential sale can close. Expect Florida tenting bids to land 10 to 20 percent above the national midpoint, with the median single-family home running $2,800 to $3,800.

South Florida from Stuart down through Key West sees the highest pricing in the state. Drywood termite pressure is severe, Formosan termites (Coptotermes formosanus) are encroaching from the Gulf Coast, and the saltwater-laden air corrodes the gas-detection meters fumigators rely on, raising equipment replacement costs. Miami-Dade and Broward fumigators typically quote $3,200 to $4,500 for a 2,000 square foot single-family home, and $5,000 to $8,500 for a 3,500 square foot two-story with a tile roof. Tampa Bay and the I-4 corridor run 5 to 10 percent below South Florida pricing. The Panhandle (Pensacola, Destin, Tallahassee) sits roughly at the Florida average because subterranean termite pressure is higher and drywood pressure is lower, so the local technician pool tilts toward soil treatment instead of fumigation.

Florida fumigation operators must hold an FDACS structural fumigation certificate. Ask for the operator's certificate number before signing, and verify it against the FDACS public license lookup. The WDO inspection report that triggered the tenting requirement (NPMA-33) is also worth keeping on file for the next homeowner; many Florida lenders require a clean WDO on a five-year cycle even outside a sale, and the document is the evidence of treatment.

California house tenting: regional pricing and CDPR rules

California is the second-largest fumigation market. Drywood termite activity (mostly Incisitermes minor, the western drywood termite) concentrates along the coast from Sonoma County down through San Diego, with the heaviest pressure in Southern California from Ventura County south. Expect California tenting to run 15 to 30 percent above the national midpoint, with most single-family homes priced between $3,000 and $5,500.

San Diego County and Orange County see the highest fumigation pricing in the state because demand is constant and the regulatory load is heavier. A 2,000 square foot home in Mission Viejo, Coronado, or Newport Beach typically runs $3,500 to $4,800. Los Angeles County and the South Bay come in slightly lower because the contractor pool is larger and competition is fiercer. Inland Empire pricing (Riverside, San Bernardino) sits closer to the state average around $2,800 to $3,800 for a comparable home. The Bay Area sees lower drywood pressure than Southern California, so tenting demand is lower and bids run closer to the national midpoint, generally $2,500 to $3,500.

California operators must hold a Structural Pest Control Board Branch 1 license, separate from the Branch 2 (general pest) and Branch 3 (termite repair) categories. Sulfuryl fluoride use is regulated by CDPR (California Department of Pesticide Regulation), and operators have to file Notice of Intent forms with the county agricultural commissioner before each fumigation. Some Southern California cities (notably Newport Beach and several South Bay coastal cities) add their own notification or permitting steps that push the lead time between scheduling and tent day from 5 days to 10 days.

When tenting is the right call (and when it is not)

Whole-structure fumigation is the right answer when drywood termites are confirmed in more than one location, or when the infestation is hidden inside wall cavities and roof framing where no spot treatment can reach. It is the wrong answer when the infestation is small, isolated, and accessible, or when the wood-destroying organism is actually subterranean termites or carpenter ants.

Subterranean termites (Reticulitermes species in most of the United States, Coptotermes formosanus along the Gulf Coast and in Hawaii) live in soil and travel into the structure through mud tubes. They are not eliminated by tent fumigation because the colony is in the ground, not in the wood inside the tent. Treat them with a liquid soil barrier (Termidor SC with fipronil as the active ingredient is the dominant product in this category) or a Sentricon Always Active bait station system. Tenting a home with a subterranean infestation wastes money because the queen stays in the soil and the colony rebuilds within months.

Drywood termites (Cryptotermes and Incisitermes species) live entirely inside the wood they consume. They never touch soil and never build mud tubes. A single drywood colony in an accessible attic rafter can be spot-treated for $250 to $700 with localized borate foam, Termidor foam, or orange oil injection. If a thorough inspection finds drywood activity in two or more disconnected areas (one in the attic and one in a kitchen window frame, for example), spot treatment becomes unreliable because there are almost certainly hidden colonies elsewhere; tenting is the right call.

Decision rule. One drywood colony in one accessible spot? Spot treat for $250 to $700. Two or more colonies in disconnected areas? Tent for $2,500 to $5,000. Subterranean termites in mud tubes? Soil treatment or bait stations, never a tent. Carpenter ant frass that looks like drywood pellets? Neither, treat for ants.

Alternatives to whole-structure fumigation

TreatmentCostBest fitLimitation
Spot treatment (borate or Termidor foam injection)$250 to $700Single, accessible drywood colonyCannot reach hidden colonies inside walls
Heat treatment (whole-structure)$1,800 to $4,500Homeowners avoiding chemical fumigantsCannot penetrate dense framing or attic insulation evenly
Orange oil (d-limonene) injection$400 to $1,200Small, accessible drywood pocketsLimited penetration; only reaches wood near the injection point
XT-2000 localized treatment$500 to $1,400Drywood spots in accessible framingMarketing claims often exceed lab data
Sentricon Always Active bait stations$1,200 to $2,500 install + $250 to $400 yearly monitoringSubterranean termite control onlyDoes not address drywood termites
Termidor SC liquid soil barrier$1,000 to $2,500Subterranean termite control onlyDoes not address drywood termites
Borate wood preservative (Bora-Care, Tim-Bor)$1 to $3 per sq ft of treated woodPreventive treatment during construction or remodelSurface-applied; will not kill an established colony

Heat treatment (sometimes branded ThermaPureHeat or Thermal Remediation) raises the interior structural temperature to about 130 degrees for several hours, which kills termites and their eggs by denaturing protein. It is a real alternative to tenting and avoids chemical residue, but it does not penetrate evenly through every wall cavity. Homes with foam insulation, hollow concrete block walls, or thick stucco often see uneven kill rates. Heat works best for accessible single-story homes with conventional framing, fiberglass-batt attic insulation, and no obstructions to airflow.

Orange oil and XT-2000 are marketed heavily as low-toxicity alternatives. They contain d-limonene, the same compound that gives oranges their citrus aroma; it happens to be highly disruptive to drywood termite digestion at close range. They work, but only where the technician can reach. Plan on three to four return visits over six months to catch colonies the first round missed. If you have multiple infestation sites or any uncertainty about the colony footprint, you are usually better off spending $2,500 on a tent than $1,200 on partial spot work that has to be redone.

Preparation checklist for tent day

Most cost overruns on a tenting job come from prep work the homeowner did not realize was their responsibility. Walk through this list 7 days before the scheduled tent date so you are not scrambling at the last minute.

  • Bag or remove all food, including unopened canned goods, sealed cereal boxes, dry pasta, spices, and condiments. Sulfuryl fluoride does not penetrate true polyethylene or glass with sealed metal lids, but most cardboard, paper, and plastic-film packaging is permeable. Use the Nylofume bags the contractor delivers; do not substitute kitchen trash bags.
  • Remove all medications, including over-the-counter pills, vitamins, and topical creams. Same logic as food applies; the gas penetrates most packaging.
  • Remove pet food, bird seed, and any animal feed stored in garages or sheds that share an exterior wall with the tented structure.
  • Move all live plants outside, including potted plants, succulents, and any cuttings rooting in water. Sulfuryl fluoride is lethal to plant tissue at the concentrations used.
  • Trim vegetation back at least 18 inches from every exterior wall so the tarps can seal to soil. Cut back tree branches that overhang the roof.
  • Turn off gas at the meter and extinguish all pilot lights (water heaters, furnaces, gas fireplaces, gas dryers). The crew will confirm this is done before introducing the fumigant.
  • Unplug and bag valuable electronics with photographic film, magnetic media, or sensitive moisture sensors. Most modern electronics tolerate Vikane exposure, but vintage gear can corrode.
  • Open every interior door, cabinet, drawer, and closet so the gas circulates. Pull furniture away from walls. Remove cushions from couches so air moves through them.
  • Secure or remove pets and fish tanks. A fish tank cannot stay in the home; sulfuryl fluoride dissolves into water and is lethal to aquatic life within minutes.
  • Arrange lodging for 2 to 3 nights, with built-in slack in case aeration extends. Confirm pet-friendly accommodations if needed.

The general pest control preparation guide covers the broader principles that apply to any pest service, and most of those rules apply doubly to a tenting job because the home is sealed for 48 hours with no human inside to spot a problem.

Long-term termite protection after the tent comes down

Fumigation eliminates every drywood termite inside the structure at the moment of treatment. It does not leave residual protection. The next swarmer that lands on your eaves can start a new colony, and you would not see visible damage for 2 to 7 years. This is why Florida and California fumigation contracts often include a 1 to 5 year retreatment warranty: if drywood termites return inside the warranty window, the contractor re-tents at no charge to the homeowner.

Long-term protection comes from a few stacked measures. Borate-treated wood (Bora-Care or Tim-Bor applied to exposed framing in attics and crawl spaces) creates a residual that drywood termites will not penetrate; it stays effective as long as the wood does not get wet. Annual WDO inspections by an FDACS-licensed inspector in Florida, or a Branch 3 inspector in California, catch reinfestations before they spread. Reducing entry points also helps: sealing cracks where stucco meets the foundation, installing fine-mesh attic vents that exclude swarmers, and replacing rotted wood near the soil line all cut the rate at which new colonies establish.

How to pick a fumigation contractor

The fumigation market is consolidating around a small number of operators in each region. Many independent pest companies subcontract the actual tent work to a regional gas house, even if the bid comes through a familiar local pest-control brand. Ask the contractor who is actually pulling the tent and operating the cylinders, and make sure that lead operator holds the state credential.

  • Confirm the operator's structural fumigation certificate. In Florida it is FDACS issued; in California it is the Structural Pest Control Board Branch 1. The lead fumigator on the job (not just the company) must hold this credential, and the certificate number should appear on your contract.
  • Ask about NPMA (National Pest Management Association) membership and any QualityPro or GreenPro certification. QualityPro requires background-checked technicians, ongoing IPM (Integrated Pest Management) training, and verifiable insurance.
  • Get the warranty in writing. A 2-year retreatment warranty is the floor for a tenting job; 5 years is achievable in active drywood markets like South Florida and Southern California.
  • Read the contract for ancillary charges. Tile-roof padding, gas-meter monitoring, post-job aeration extensions, and damage repair coordination should all be itemized so you know what triggers an upcharge.
  • Verify insurance: general liability of at least $1 million and a workers' compensation policy if the company has employees. Sulfuryl fluoride is heavily regulated by EPA and CDPR, and either agency can pursue civil penalties if a non-credentialed crew handles it.
  • Compare three written bids. The spread on a 2,000 square foot home routinely runs $800 to $1,200 between the low and high bidder for materially the same scope, so getting three quotes is the simplest savings lever available.

The guide to finding a qualified exterminator walks through the credential verification process in more detail, and the broader exterminator pricing guide contextualizes a fumigation bid against the rest of a homeowner's annual pest spend.

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Frequently asked questions about house tenting cost

How much does it cost to tent a house?

Tenting a house costs $1,400 to $5,200 in 2026, with most homeowners paying around $2,700 for a 1,800 to 2,200 square foot single-story home. Pricing tracks cubic volume of enclosed space rather than floor area, which is why two-story and vaulted-ceiling homes run higher per square foot than single-story ranches. Florida and California sit 10 to 30 percent above the national midpoint.

Is tenting a house worth it?

Tenting is worth it when drywood termite activity has been confirmed in more than one location or inside framing that spot treatment cannot reach. The $2,500 to $4,500 cost is roughly half what serious structural damage repair runs over time, and tenting eliminates the colony in a single 48-hour window. For an isolated, accessible infestation, spot treatment at $250 to $700 is the better economic choice.

Is house fumigation worth it?

Whole-structure fumigation is worth the spend when the alternative is recurring spot treatments that leave hidden colonies alive. A drywood colony left untreated typically expands at 10 to 15 percent per year, and damage repair costs scale faster than treatment costs. If you skip a confirmed multi-site infestation, you will be paying for both repair and re-treatment within 3 to 5 years.

Is it expensive to get rid of termites?

Termite removal ranges from $250 for a single spot treatment to $5,200 or more for whole-structure fumigation, depending on species and infestation scope. Subterranean termites are typically treated for $1,000 to $2,500 with a liquid soil barrier or a Sentricon bait system. Drywood termites in multiple locations require fumigation, the higher-cost option. Untreated damage routinely exceeds $8,000 per affected structure.

Which smell do termites hate?

Drywood termites are repelled by d-limonene (the compound that gives oranges their citrus aroma), cedar oil, vetiver oil, and clove oil. Orange oil products like XT-2000 are sold commercially as termite treatments and work at close range, but the smell alone does not drive established colonies out of wood; the chemical has to make direct contact with the insects. Smell-based repellents are useful as a deterrent in finished wood, not as a cure for active infestations.

How long does house tenting take?

Tenting takes 48 to 72 hours from tent-up to re-entry clearance. Day one is preparation and tent installation. The home stays sealed for 24 to 36 hours during the exposure period. Day three is aeration and gas-detection testing. Cool weather (under 60 degrees) can extend the timeline by 12 to 24 hours because sulfuryl fluoride saturates wood more slowly at lower temperatures.

Do I have to leave my house during tenting?

Yes. Every person, pet, and live plant must be out of the home for the full 48 to 72 hour period. Sulfuryl fluoride is lethal at the concentrations used during fumigation, and the home is not safe to enter until the certified fumigator measures interior gas levels at or below 1 PPM and issues a written clearance. Budget $240 to $600 for hotel costs across the two to three nights.

What needs to come out of the house before tenting?

All food, medication, pet food, and live plants need to come out or be double-bagged in the Nylofume bags the contractor provides. Glass containers with metal lids and sealed polyethylene are safe; cardboard, paper, and standard plastic-film packaging are not. Fish tanks have to leave the property entirely because the gas dissolves into water. Most contractors deliver bags 48 hours before tent day.

Is the house safe to live in after tenting?

Yes, once a certified fumigator has measured interior gas levels at or below 1 PPM with a calibrated Fumiscope and issued a written clearance certificate. Sulfuryl fluoride does not leave residue on surfaces, so there is no need to wipe down counters or wash fabrics after re-entry. The clearance test is the legal threshold; do not re-enter on the contractor's verbal say-so.

Does homeowners insurance cover house tenting?

Homeowners insurance almost never covers termite damage or treatment costs. Insurers treat termite damage as a maintenance issue, not a sudden peril like fire or burst pipe damage. The exception is if termite damage causes a covered secondary event (a ceiling collapse, for example), in which case the secondary repair may be covered but the underlying termite work is not. Annual WDO inspections are the budget protection, not the insurance policy.

How often does a house need to be tented?

In Florida and Southern California, drywood termite infestations recur on a 7 to 15 year cycle in homes without preventive treatment. A house treated with borate wood preservative (Bora-Care or Tim-Bor) at the time of fumigation typically goes 12 to 20 years before reinfestation reaches a threshold that requires another tent. Annual WDO inspections catch new colonies early enough that spot treatment is usually sufficient, deferring the next tent indefinitely.

Can I treat drywood termites without tenting?

Yes, when the infestation is isolated and accessible. A single colony in an attic rafter or window frame can be spot-treated with borate foam or orange oil injection for $250 to $700. Heat treatment (raising interior temperatures to 130 degrees for several hours) is a chemical-free whole-structure alternative at $1,800 to $4,500. Multi-site infestations almost always need fumigation because hidden colonies elsewhere in the structure are statistically likely.

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Pest Control Pricing is an independent research team focused on transparent home services pricing. Our cost guides are based on industry research, contractor surveys, and publicly available data to help you make informed decisions and avoid overpaying.

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