How to Get Rid of Raccoons: Complete Guide for Homeowners

Last updated: March 5, 2026

By James — 25-year pest control industry veteran

Raccoons are intelligent, adaptable animals that thrive in suburban environments. They knock over trash cans, tear up sod looking for grubs, damage gardens, and most seriously, take up residence in attics where they can cause thousands of dollars in damage. Getting rid of raccoons requires eliminating the attractants that brought them to your property and, in many cases, hiring a licensed wildlife control professional for removal.

Why Raccoons Are in Your Yard

Raccoons are attracted to properties that provide easy food sources and shelter:

• Garbage. Unsecured trash cans are the number one attractant. Raccoons can open standard lids and flip bins over.
• Pet food. Dog or cat food left outdoors overnight is a reliable food source for raccoons.
• Bird feeders. Both the seed and the birds themselves attract raccoons, especially platform feeders and suet cages.
• Gardens and fruit trees. Corn, melons, and fruit trees are targets. Raccoons can devastate a garden overnight.
• Shelter. Attics, chimneys, crawlspaces, under decks, and sheds provide den sites for raccoons, especially females with babies in spring.
• Water sources. Ponds, fountains, and pet water bowls attract raccoons.

Signs of Raccoon Activity

• Knocked-over or opened trash cans with garbage scattered around
• Rolled-back sod or torn-up lawn (raccoons dig for grubs)
• Large, cylindrical droppings near feeding areas or at the base of trees
• Scratching or thumping sounds in the attic, especially at night
• Damaged soffit or fascia boards where raccoons forced entry into the attic
• Paw prints in mud or on dusty surfaces (five toes on each foot, resembling small human hands)

DIY Deterrents

Remove food sources

Eliminating food sources is the single most effective step. If there is no food, raccoons will move on:

• Secure trash cans with bungee cords, locking lids, or store bins in a garage until collection day
• Bring pet food and water bowls inside every evening
• Remove or secure bird feeders (consider taking them down entirely during active raccoon season)
• Pick up fallen fruit from fruit trees
• Harvest garden crops promptly

Motion-activated deterrents

• Motion-activated sprinklers. Effective at startling raccoons away from specific areas like gardens and trash storage. Most effective when moved periodically so raccoons do not habituate.
• Motion-activated lights. Moderately effective. Raccoons may habituate to lights over time if the food source remains.

Other deterrents

• Ammonia-soaked rags. Placed near den entrances, the strong odor can encourage raccoons to leave a denning site. Replace regularly as the scent fades.
• Electric fencing. A low-voltage electric fence around a garden is one of the most reliable ways to protect crops from raccoons.

Health Risks

Raccoons pose serious health risks that make professional handling important:

• Rabies. Raccoons are a primary vector species for rabies in the eastern United States. Any raccoon exhibiting unusual behavior (active during daytime, staggering, aggressive) should be avoided and reported to animal control.
• Raccoon roundworm (Baylisascaris). Raccoon droppings can contain roundworm eggs that are infectious to humans, particularly children. The eggs are resistant to most disinfectants and can remain viable in soil for years. This is why professional cleanup of raccoon latrines is important.
• Leptospirosis. Raccoon urine can carry this bacterial disease, which is transmittable to humans and pets.

Never handle raccoon droppings without proper protective equipment. If raccoons have been living in your attic, professional decontamination of the insulation is strongly recommended.

Raccoons in the Attic

A raccoon in the attic is the most common and most costly raccoon problem for homeowners. Female raccoons frequently den in attics in spring to raise their young. Signs include:

• Heavy thumping or walking sounds at night (louder than rats or squirrels)
• Vocal sounds (chittering, crying babies)
• Visible damage to soffit, fascia, or roof vents where the raccoon gained entry
• Strong urine odor from the attic

Do not attempt to remove attic raccoons yourself, especially in spring when babies may be present. Separating a mother from her babies creates a worse problem, as the mother will cause significant damage trying to get back in, and orphaned babies will die in the attic and create odor and sanitation issues.

Trapping Laws and Regulations

Trapping raccoons is regulated by state wildlife agencies, and the laws vary significantly:

• Most states require a trapping license or permit, even on your own property
• Many states prohibit relocating trapped wildlife more than a few miles
• Some states require euthanasia rather than relocation due to rabies concerns
• Certain trapping methods (leg-hold traps, snares) are prohibited in many states
• Raccoons may be protected during certain seasons

Because of these legal complexities, hiring a licensed wildlife control operator is recommended over DIY trapping. They know the local regulations and have the proper permits.

Professional Raccoon Removal

A professional wildlife control operator will:

1. Inspect the property to identify entry points, den sites, and the number of raccoons
2. Set humane live traps in appropriate locations
3. Remove trapped raccoons according to state regulations
4. Seal all entry points with heavy-gauge materials that raccoons cannot tear through
5. Clean up and decontaminate affected areas, especially attic insulation

Professional raccoon removal costs $200 to $600 for trapping. Attic removal with exclusion and cleanup costs $300 to $1,500. Attic decontamination and insulation replacement is an additional $500 to $2,500. For detailed pricing, see our wildlife removal cost guide. For general pest pricing, see our pest control cost guide. If you are unsure whether you need professional help, see our guide on when to call an exterminator.

Frequently Asked Questions